The Fork

Vermouth Revisited

on Monday, 26 March 2012. Posted in The Fork

Investigating a forgotten favorite

Vermouth-Revisited

As a bartender you become familiar with the usual suspects.  These key players - vodka, gin, rum, tequila, whiskey, brandy, and scotch - form the foundation upon which most modern cocktails are built.   Supporting these base spirits are a vast array of lesser known and exotic bit players - cordials, liqueurs, fortified wines - the list goes on and on.  Perhaps the most underappreciated of these is vermouth.  Although vermouth maintains its necessity by virtue of its inclusion in several important cocktail classics, it is largely unknown and unloved in its own right.  This has not always been the case.  Early mixologists relied heavily upon vermouth as a central component of their creations.  Among its desirable qualities were its abilities to accentuate flavors, to introduce aromatics, and to mitigate the high alcohol content of other ingredients.
 
Today, in the era of the “extra dry” vodka martini, very few people even know what vermouth is.  Vermouth is, in fact, a fortified wine.  Like both sherry and port vermouth begins as a wine base to which a distilled spirit is added.  This both increases the alcohol content and the shelf life of the final product (an important feature in the days before refrigeration).  Vermouth also qualifies as an “aromatized” wine, meaning it has been infused with a selection of herbs and spices.  Historically this served the purpose of masking unpleasant odors and flavors present in mediocre wine.  One of the main flavoring agents in early vermouth was wormwood - in fact it is the German word for this ingredient from which the name “vermouth” is derived.  Since those days wormwood has fallen out of favor, largely because it was suspected of being poisonous.  Modern vermouth is infused with any number of dry ingredients including cloves, cinnamon, citrus peel, cardamom, marjoram, chamomile, coriander, juniper, hyssop, and ginger.

Americans are most likely to be familiar with the two dominant types of vermouth - sweet and dry (although there are other several other varieties).  The creation of sweet vermouth is credited to Italy’s Antonio Benedetto in 1786, while the dry white version of vermouth was created in the early 1800’s by Joseph Noilly of France.  Early vermouth was largely celebrated for its purported medicinal qualities, wormwood in particular being regarded as a treatment for parasites.  The concoction also came to favor as an apertif, its bitter sweet flavor making it an ideal appetite stimulant.  In the hands of American mixologists vermouth rose to even greater prominence, established as the dominant ingredient in a number of early favorites like the Manhattan, the Negroni, and the Martinez which later became the Martini.

Over the years the use of vermouth in cocktails has dropped significantly.  There are a number of factors to consider.  During Prohibition vermouth was more difficult to acquire than the moonshine and bathtub gin that floated the speakeasies of the time.  As a result the ratio of vermouth used in mixed drinks fell sharply.  Also, as spirit production improved there was less of a need to mask the unpleasant qualities of poorly distilled alcohol.  And perhaps modern drinkers have a greater tolerance for the strong stuff - no need to cut the pure spirit with a less potent vermouth.

Whatever the reasons for its decline, vermouth is poised for a comeback.  Modern mixologists are resurrecting interest in this forgotten player.  Many bars are now stocking premium vermouths and showcasing them in new and inventive cocktails.  It seems that in mixology, like in fashion, that which was old is new again.

A Margarita Made Right

on Monday, 12 March 2012. Posted in The Fork

… It’s well worth the wait

A-Margarita-Made-Right

The margarita holds a rightful place as one of mixology’s enduring classics.  The history of this tequila based tiple is somewhat cloudy.  There are several colorful accounts of various bartenders whipping up this creation in honor of suitably inspiring patrons.  In one story the barman’s muse is a dancer, in another the daughter of a German diplomat, and in a third none other than the popular crooner Peggy Lee.  It is perhaps more likely that the drink evolved somewhat organically from a brandy based drink known as a “Daisy”.  During prohibition many Americans traveling in Mexico were likely to have turned to tequila as a suitable alternative in the creation of this thirst quenching cocktail.  And, sure enough, the Spanish word for daisy is … margarita.
 
Just what makes the margarita so enticing?  The perfect balance of fresh lime juice, tequila, and triple sec yields one of the most refreshing cocktails imaginable.  There is perhaps, nothing so grand as a well made margarita on a hot summer day.  And conversely, there is nothing quite as disappointing as poorly made margarita.  Just what makes the difference you might ask?  The secret is in the juice.  Although I believe that no cocktail should suffer the indignity of sweet and sour and/or preserved lime juice, the margarita is particularly horrible when prepared with these ingredients.  A drink that is supposed to be light and balanced becomes cloying and heavy handed.  As if that weren’t enough the amplified artificial acidity is a menace to even the strongest stomach.  Give me the real thing please.  Freshly squeezed lime juice, tempered with just a touch of agave nectar of simple syrup, is the proper counterpart to the spirits that make the margarita sing.

And just where can you find the perfect margarita?  I believe you might have guessed it.  All margaritas at BITE are made to order with freshly squeezed juice.  It may take a little longer, but the result is to be savored - sip by sip, salt or no salt.

Salad Days, Salad Nights, Salads at BITE

on Monday, 27 February 2012. Posted in The Fork

Ever adaptable, alway delicious!

Salad-Days-Salad_Nights-Salad-at-BITE

As a process of food preparation salad is one of the most versatile ways to approach ingredients.  The medium can incorporate any number of elements - leafy greens, legumes, fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meat, bread - all are fair game.  Although there are many ways to interpret the idea of salad, the word itself has Latin roots.  Derived from the Roman word for “salty”, salata likely referred to the Roman practice of salting or seasoning greens.  This idea of seasoning is central to the idea of salad and most modern variations feature a dressing of some sort to bind the textures and flavors of the mixture.
 
There are as many ways to approach the preparation of a salad as there are ingredients with which to create them.   At one end of the spectrum, the concept is perfectly suited to the improvisational spirit of a quickly tossed salad.  Encouraging a spontaneous combination of ingredients at hand, a simple salad is easily adapted to different seasons and flavors.  Indeed it is the very simplicity of a tossed salad that makes it such an excellent component of a meal.  Whether enjoyed at the beginning, middle, or end of the meal, tossed salads offer a playful freshness that serves to enhance the overall dining experience.

Perhaps less familiar is the more deliberate composed salad.  A composed salad differs from the more well known “simple salad” in that its ingredients are carefully arranged and dressed on the plate rather than being tossed together before serving.  This process allows for a careful consideration of flavors and textures, encouraging a diner to explore the interplay of different elements.  This visually appealing presentation is also an ideal way to feature high quality & seasonal ingredients.  Unlike most tossed salads, a composed salad is very often substantial enough to function as the main component of the meal.  Classics like the Niçoise and the Cobb are complete with as little as some crusty bread and a glass of wine.

Composed or simple, the main event or a started, salads are a delicious addition to any meal.  BITE’s current offerings feature a number of preparations and ingredients - be sure to try our seasonal stunner - The Shaved Winter Salad - while you still can!

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